“One brand, one voice. Origin Africa.” That was the motto for last week’s fashion show held in Nairobi. The Origin Africa Showcase fashion show was an event sponsored by ACTIF (African Cotton and Textile Industries Federation) and the US Agency for International Development (USAID), profiling African products, the African identity, emerging design talents and identifying weavers and providers who produce fabric in Africa. The aim was to represent the link between the textile industries with global demands and with regional benefits, such as in the fashion trade. ACTIF, formed in 2005 asserts the need for an increase in trade and access for cotton, textile and apparel industry in Africa. ACTIF Board Chairman Jaswinder Bedi, speaking before the show, expressed that giving Africa a different value in the western market was cohesive with giving farmers a better value as well, giving them more incentives and better pay as part of fair trade. “Africa is not just safari-we grow 12% of the world’s cotton, we need to keep money in Africa,” said Mr. Bedi. Among the distinguished guests that evening, was also the Prime Minister of Kenya, Raila Odinga who declared that he was an “Afro-Optimist,” suggesting that Africa was not a lost case and that outside aid was not what the continent needed, rather the motivation to work for themselves, capacity building, trade and investments. He reiterated that the private sectors could mobilize change. USAID created a program called COMPETE, that works alongside ACTIF. This program promotes African companies to increase trade internationally, enhancing economic growth through trade.

Now with all that said my head is spinning with information overload, basically, it’s a great incentive and way for connecting the fashion scene with its building block, the fabric manufactures and exposing these sectors to a broader market.

While the panel of judges ticked and assessed the designers on such things as creativity, aesthetics, practicality, and fitting, I juggled my flip video recorder and camera at the same time, trying to look at those beautiful models and of course at their beautiful clothes!

The Origin Africa fashion show consisted of nine designers, three from Kenya, two from Uganda, two representing Tanzania, and two for Ethiopia, also showcasing were three fashion design students. Each designer was asked to execute five commercial outfits and one showstopper. Beforehand I hobnobbed with some of the designers, getting to know a bit more about their lines before their models came cat-walking down the runway.

Designers Stella Atal, Robi Morro, Samson Ssenkaaba & Adele Dejak

Robi Morro, of Mapozi designs, from Tanzania wore her own creation, an orange and black floral skirt, with a high black waistband. She was already looking stylish when I had seen her the day before, in a bright pink kikoi dress, with a sultry plunging neckline. I figured her line for the show would reflect that, deep and flirty. Her inspiration was the woman, calling her line “Garden of Style” and using linens mixed with cotton, kanga and satin. She compared the woman to a flower and indeed it was apparent on the models that were adorned in ruffled skirts and necklines, reminding me of blossoming petals, tulips and roses.

Also representing Tanzania was Jamilla Vera Swai, who created an ensemble encouraged by her two-year-old daughter’s homework and fittingly called “Say and Color Zero.” The patterns and overall design were not as exciting, however, she was saved by her showstopper, a bold, sleek red maxi with an inverted triangle back that looked gorgeous on the tall, rich skinned model.

For Uganda, designers Samson Ssenkaaba of Xenson and Stella Atal, brought out an unusual collection. Atal’s self worn, jersey inspired screen-printed dress set the mood for her compilation, which I found a bit old school. However, Samson’s line had the crowd oohing and aahing. With white harem pants, textured in blue patches, with kikoi-print borders, it was amazing and inventive. His showstopper was nothing short of something Lady Gaga could wear, a puffed sleeved dress with a hood, surrounded by a ballooning, also kikoi-bordered bottom half. His endeavor was to create a look centered on urban purity. “In my designs, I am putting life into organic materials, making organic materials seem funky, young and contemporary,” said Ssenkaaba. Well done, Xenson.

As I continued to socialize before the show began, I spotted a petite, fairy-like girl, dressed in jeans encompassed by a thickset Masai belt, a floral print newsboy hat, and a funky scarf draped over her white shirt. This was Kenyan designer Rachel Mutindi of Ki2. Her casual, colorful and funky style took me back to my days in Brooklyn, and I had to tell her. Mutindi, also showcasing her designs at the ACTIF launch show, expressed how important it was for the textile industry to come together with designers to create a relationship that would increase exposure for both. “We can’t lose ourselves in space, we need each other,” Mutindi said. Mutindi’s set, motivated by flowers and planes, was a mixture of color, lots of green, printed and woven fabrics. Using Masai blankets as jackets, which I thought was retro and resourceful, her style was naturalistic, and perhaps not the best fit for someone whose looking for something form-fitting and sophisticated, but it could work; it was free and laid back.

In the student designer category were Michael Nzioki, Jane Wairimu, and Christine Murage. There was a rather split premise of style between relaxed informal wear and dainty girly apparel. Murage and Nzioki couldn’t have been more different, Nzioki’s look was combat gear centered with warm tones. Murage, calling her selection “pretty holiday”, replicated a display of ruffle-filled dresses.

Overall, the show was an exciting coming together of businessmen and women and fashion lovers, suggesting Mutindi’s statement true, “we need each other.” I was happy to know that Ssenkaaba was selected for the best design award that night along with Michael Nzioki!

As the African fashion industry grows, so does the need for exposure for new designers entering the industry. This need has translated into various fashion events, many annual, now occurring in many places around Africa, as well as internationally (yes, some African fashion events even take place overseas). These events focus primarily on further developing African fashion and creating a gateway for new designers, trends, and ideas to use upon entering the field of fashion. And as a result, we get to enjoy events like fashion weeks, shows, fairs and award ceremonies, as well as a few other events that keep us in the know and on top between seasons. Here is a relatively comprehensive list of all the major happenings that all faithful fashionistas would be sorry to miss…

JANUARY

Close to home, January sees with it not only a new year, but also the AFI Joburg Fashion Week. This fashion event gives the country’s top designers the opportunity to show their Autumn collections (southern hemisphere). The event takes place over a couple of days and is held at the Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton – a great one to diarise and make a day (or a few days) of with some girlfriends.

FEBURARY

The Design Indaba, held at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, sets the design tone for the year. An expo focusing not purely on fashion but rather on many different design spheres including furniture and graphic, the design indaba never fails to surprise and delight creative visitors from both Cape Town and further abroad. Offering exposure to many new designers and graduates, the expo is often at the forefront of design movements, and is always a major event on anyone who is anyone in the world of design’s calendar. The atmosphere is fun, fresh and filled with anticipation. It has proven a professional and popular event over the years and does many favours for college graduates and new businesses / designers entering the design industry for the first time. (check out our report on the last Indaba to see some fab designs!)

Another annual fashion event is Haute Africa Fashion week, taking place in… Dallas, Texas. Yes you heard it, Texas. The intention here is to provide a platform for the exhibition of fine “African fashion and lifestyle luxurious products by major African designer labels and brands”. This event aims to provide one space in which buying, product promotion, press action and cultural exchange can occur simultaneously. Runway shows, exhibitions, shopping parties, photo shoots, couture fashion shows, a charity ball, fashion business seminars, trend and retail seminar and an awards night are all part and parcel of HAFW.

The New York fashion week also hosts since February 2009 the Arise African collective. Last February 2010 displayed some of Africa’s best talent, such as Designers Jacques van der Watt and Danica Lepen (Black Coffee) from South Africa.

Afric Collection which is in its sixth year is taking place in the Economic Hub of Cameroon, Douala . This Festival not only Bring the West African Fashionista under One “ Afric Village ” but is a testament of the francophone Contribution to the World of Fashion. Mustafa Hassanali, one of Africa’s best designers, showcased his last collection this year at Afric collection.

MARCH

Having been going for over 10 years strong now, the South Africa Fashion Week (aka “The Business of Fashion”) is one of the country’s main fashion initiatives. It has launched the careers of designers such as Stoned Cherrie, Black Coffee and Craig Native. The South Africa Fashion Week  provides a space for South African designers to exhibit their Spring/Summer collection (southern hemisphere) in Johannesburg. This is a great event by which to enter into the industry.

Following on from the successful ARISE Magazine African Fashion Collective held recently at New York Fashion Week, ARISE showcased ten cross-continent African designers as part of ARISE L’AFRIQUE-À-PORTER FALL 2010/2011. Taking place at the prestigious Hotel Georges V, Paris, the ARISE L’AFRIQUE-À-PORTER FALL 2010/2011 presentation is part of the activities of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode Fédération. Designers Kluk CGDT, David Tlale, Lunar and Clive Rundle represented South Africa. Nigerian designers MOMO, Eyola, Tiffany Amber and Jewel by Lisa also showcased as well as Eric Raisina from Madagascar and Christie Brown from Ghana.

APRIL/MAY

The Festival for African Fashion and Arts (FAFA) takes place at Nairobi National Park, Kenya. This event was birthed in 2008 in response to post election violence which took place in Kenya. This event aims to display “creativity and solidarity in the face of adversity”, and to create a stage for the incredible talent that exists in Africa in the areas of fashion, music and art, while encouraging unity and a call for peace. FAFA places a strong emphasis is placed ethical initiatives, and involves many artisans from disadvantaged backgrounds, in conjunction with many of Africa’s top designers. Included in the line up are fashion shows, exhibitions and other creative events.

“The Designer Boutique Show” is an event open exclusively to buyers in an attempt to create a buying custom between buyers and designers, and foster such business relationships – taking place both in Cape town and in Johannesburg.

JUNE

South Africa will get to experience the taste of Africa Fashion Week Spring/Summer collection organized by AFI in Johannesburg. With many of Africa’s leading designers, both old favorites and edgy newcomers are sure to wow the crowds as per usual at this world standard event.

The significance of this event is in the opportunity it provides African designers to overcome ethnic and cultural differences and present a unified vision with regard to African fashion. This fashion week will end in the African fashion awards ceremony.

Ghana’s very own Fashion Week is taking place in Accra. Here up-and-coming African fashion designers showcase their talents in a fun, creative, and slightly eccentric environment. The purpose of Ghana’s fashion week is to foster a network amongst African designers, as well as to bring designers together in order to explore and further new ideas.

JULY

Africa Fashion Week New York is a fairly new innitiative that takes place in New York City. It is currently hosted by Adiree Fashion Agency, partners and sponsors. This event is a luxurious event taking place over a few days, and includes a number of runway shows, exibitions and industry networking events with the intenton of raising the awareness of African fashion in the New York and Tri-State Area. With buyers and influencial people within the industry present at AFWNY, as well as over 2000 audience members, this presents African designers with a fantastic opportunity in terms of exposure and networking.

AUGUST

Cape Town Fashion Week is quickly becoming Cape Town’s largest gathering of fashion talent. Offering a fantastic combination of entertainment, exhibitions and conferences, it’s no wonder crowds flock to the event religiously. A three day event, the first day sees mainly young designers, presented in association with the Cape town Fashion Council. More established men’s and women’s designers take take to the stage on the second day, and the third and final day brings the event to a spectacular close with dazzling day and evening wear.

The Africa Fashion Awards takes place in London. It’s aim is to celebrate and recognise the contributions made by African designers to the fashion industry, in the hopes that designers who have previously been ignored by mainstream fashion will be given some well deserved exposure. The Africa Fashion Awards hope to act as a voice for these African designers as well as to raise their proffesional profiles.

SEPTEMBER

The New York Fashion Week for upcoming Spring/Summer collection (northern hemisphere) lights up New York city, every year around September . Included in this magical extravaganza is the Arise Africa Collective as earlier mentioned. Last year featured designers such as David Tlale from South Africa and Jewel by Lisa from Nigeria.

The African Fashion Fair rolls around each year in September, and takes place at the Alliance Francaise in Nairobi, Kenya. This event focuses on bringing designers, design institutuions and fashion houses together at one event in an attemp to boost the African fashion industry, as many of the services needed to support a thriving fashion industry are not always readily availble to many of area’s designers today without major financial backing (for example mass production, marketing, fashion photography etc). Workshops, fashion displays, fashion shows and the oppertuinity to shop is all a part of what makes the AFA what it is today.

OCTOBER

At the South Africa Fashion Week in October South African designers are able to showcase their Autumn collections (southern hemisphere) for the year. The event includes fashion exhibitions, the shopfloor, and runway shows.

It’s pretty clear the African fashion industry is alive and kicking (rather impatiently might we add), and begging for more. However it is interesting that there are a few key differences between African Fashion Weeks and International fashion weeks such as Paris, Milan, New York and London. Each of these events are followed up by trade fairs which are tailored to buyers. These International Fashion Weeks also fall more accurately in line with the timing of the Fashion cycle calender and in accordance with buyers timelines in terms of range planning (showing collections 6-9 months prior to the start of the season in question).

There are quite some challenges for South Africa to streamline the number of events as well as the cycles of when the summer and autumn collections are showcased. While it becomes obvious there is room for streamlining in the African Fashion calendar – it is still clear that international exposure and interest is constantly growing. We can’t help but look forward to next year’s fashion calender with an even greater sense of anticipation, wondering what new surprises will be in stores for us, and on which horizon they might lie.

Colour is something that has always fascinated me. From a young age the spectacle of an array of colours shining into a room fragmented by a piece of glass has captured the breath of many unsuspecting and somewhat confused children around the world.

Colours have the ability to entice, attract, and repel, to elicit certain feelings and emotions, to communicate, to make certain statements about those wearing colour (or not wearing colour), to enhance our physical appearance, or to do a little less in the way of favours for our image (a ghostly pale brunette in mustard yellow – need I say more).

Being African, colours become an even more integral art of our culture, heritage, nature, and lifestyle – just about every aspect of our lives. Africa as a continent is known for it bright, beautiful African prints, fabrics, beading as well as our flags. And then there is our natural scenery. Where else in the world have you seen a sunset in which almost all the colours of the rainbow feature in this every night spectacular? From the golden deserts to the turquoise oceans, green rolling hills and trees, orange Sahara, red and purple sunsets – I’m sure that if one continent where to have given birth to colour itself – Africa would be it. Between all the different flags of African nations, almost every colour is used, illustrating the diversity and wealth of vibrancy in terms of colour that Africa has to offer. What a fantastic source of inspiration this has proven to fashion designers worldwide.

But how much do we really understand about colour? And do we realise what significant role it plays in our daily lives? If you find yourself about as clueless as I did upon embarking on this quest for answers, keep reading.

For years people have been on and on about the emotional aspects of colour. And it turns out the link between colour and emotion is quite strong indeed. Whether it’s the colour that induces the emotion, or simply a learned association as a result of symbolism, many of our basic colours have fairly strong associations, which in turn are believed to evoke specific feelings and emotions. Red is said to be associated with physical strength, warmth and excitement, as well as aggression and strain. Blue is the colour linked to intelligence, trust, and serenity. Yellow (believed to be the strongest colour in terms of psychological reactions) elicits feelings of confidence, optimism and friendliness, as well as anxiety (particularly when one is of a Winter skin tone and finds themselves clothed in mustard yellow – your worst fashion nightmare with a side order of anxiety is served). Green is known to be symbolic of balance, the environment, equilibrium and peace. Interestingly enough it is also at the centre of the colour spectrum. Orange is linked to passion, fun and comfort. Pink is commonly associated with, yes, you guessed it, femininity, as well as love and sexuality. Black is believed to elicit a sense of sophistication, as well as emotional security (who would have thought), glamour, and a sense of oppression. And finally violet is commonly associated with spirituality, luxury, decadence, suppression, as well as clichéd colour schemes and decor within the wedding industry (I may or may not confirm nor deny that the last association could perhaps possibly be a personal gripe of this particular blogger – and  there is a chance she may or may not be working through these issues).

These associations are often so strong that certain colours have been used in communication, and transcended linguistic barriers on a global scale. Red stop signs, green traffic lights, light blue and green doctors outfits – can u imagine doctors delivering difficult news or frantically performing life threatening surgery dressed in bright garish red or in sombre black as you lie on the operating table trying to remain calm? Didn’t think so.

When dressing for occasions black, is nearly always appropriate and often assumed to be a sign of respect. When it comes to weddings (always a bit of a tricky one) 21st century fashion is becoming much more lenient toward the sporting of that little black dress at a wedding. This is however often quite situation specific and if in doubt – always rather opt for colours when dressing for a wedding.White is also a tricky one to wear to a wedding, as well as bright red. This is especially important if you are going to be in the wedding party and in the photographs taken after the ceremony – red always grabs the eye first as it appears nearer than it is due to its wavelength. Out of respect to the bride, always try not to draw the attention away from her on her special day.

So then, what to wear to these occasions when absolutely forced to wear colour, and not resort to the usual black or white safe standard? Well that all depends on your individual skin tone and complexion. Colour can do wonders for not only a piece of clothing – usually able to completely transform it – but for our personal image as well. The right colour accentuates one’s best features, and the wrong ones, well, don’t do us quite as many favours.

Finding the right colours to wear, colours that compliment the wearer, can be tricky. One shade of a colour may do somebody wonders, and a few shades darker may make them look sickly. This is where the skin tone experts help us out. Deciding factors in terms of your complexion are skin tone, hair colour and eye colour. Complexions are commonly labelled in terms of the seasons.

Winters are people with a cool undertone to their skin, either blue or pink. This usually means that their skin will look pale and porcelain white, yellowish olive, or dark. Winters are usually brunettes with dark eyes, but some natural white blondes may also fall into this category. Winters will glow in stark colours like reds, navy blue, black and hot pink. They will also look good in bright white or icy pastilles. Winters, however, should steer clear from earthy tones as they will make them look ashen and faded.

Summer is also a cooler tone, with blue or pink undertones. Summers are usually pale with blonde hair, or pale brunettes with light eyes. Summers look best in soft colours such as neutrals and pastels, a well as colours with cool undertones. Baby blue, pale pink, mauve, lavender and light yellow all look great on people with the summer complexion. Summers shouldn’t wear any colours that are too intense, any earth tones, black, or orange.

The autumn complexion is a warmer one, and people who fall into this category have golden undertones in their hair and skin. Redheads and brunettes with golden brown eyes fall into this category. But golden blonde and black hair colouring can also fall into this category. Here earthy tones accentuate the complexion, so try and wear colours with warm undertones. Camel, grey, olive, beige, gold and brown will all suites this complexion. Avoid bright colours and back and white, pastels and blue tones, as these will make people of this skin tone look pale and tired.

Spring is another warm tone. Spring complexions usually have subtle golden undertones, yet have extremely light skin, ivory in colour. People in this category are usually naturally golden blonde, auburn, or strawberry blonde redheads. They also have light eyes, and often a few freckles and rosy cheeks. Spring’s look fantastic in soft pale colours like peach, aqua, camel, golden yellow and ivory, coral and true reds. However, springs should avoid black and white, as well as dark dull colours.

So it seems there are many ways in which we could use colour to our favour, given the right information. Hopefully this little introduction to colour will help colour to become your little helper. Whether painting the house or dressing for a first date, remember your new found secret weapon and make it work for you.

On it’s website, Vogue has a tab for this summer’s ethical and sustainable fashion labels that you should know. But before I clicked on these designers, I took a look closer to home, specifically at Scottish born Ann McCreath’s Kenyan “radically chic” fashion brand KikoRomeo. Started in 1996, McCreath explains that the very roots of KikoRomeo were to work with community groups. “It was way before anybody was talking about ethical fashion. Ethical fashion hadn’t even been invented as a name; fair trade had, but not ethical fashion. But it was right from the beginning the foundation and the whole reason for coming into existence.”

I met Ann McCreath at her Nairobi office and workshop on a busy Tuesday, and as she acknowledged, during a busy month. I couldn’t help noticing, well first her Scottish accent, but then her unique style, wearing a blue African printed sleeveless blouse, and chunky ethnic necklace. She exuded everything that was fashionable, cultural and business- headed. Walking the walk, talking the talk, McCreath worked as an aid worker for Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF or Doctors Without Borders) (http://www.msf.org/) in Angola and then Kenya. Being frustrated in the emergency sector had her slipping into a more suitable wardrobe, hence fashion designing. Making clothes for her dolls in rural Scotland, was a keen initiation to her future and while studying at Koefia in Rome, and then working in Milan and Barcelona as a designer and cutter, she gathered exclusive experiences that would later become the blueprint for KikoRomeo, “Spain has a lot of color in its fashion, there’s a lot of individualism in fashion,” says McCreath, “I’ve always been sensitive to color and I think the Spanish interpretation of fashion was not to be scared to wear color, not scared to be bold in your prints. That, I think had a big impact.”

And for sure, one can see the impact it has had on her fashion line. KikoRomeo’s style is angled and bold, there are dark backgrounds with captivating patches of color. As McCreath also studied the art of cutting, she has taken influences from Galliano and Issey Myiake, who she says had different ways of cutting. They have inspired her to create hemlines that can be cut diagonally generating splashes of texture within the design. She emphasizes how cuts should always flatter the body and look good, “crazy good.”

Using cotton, West African prints, kanga, cotton knit, Ugandan organic jersey and conservation silk make up KikoRomeo’s high quality line.

Lastly, I can speak for the Africhic team, that we don’t only enjoy her style, how she works with fashion and the fashion community, but also how she works with the community.

KikoRomeo meaning Adams apple in Swahili is a Kenyan brand flourishing for its hip, Nairobi style but also making its name as one of the top local, socially conscious brands.

After the post election violence of 2007 and 2008 in Kenya, McCreath, while at a fashion show in Cameroon, was challenged to counterbalance the turmoil, to put her creative sense of style back in touch with her aid working skills. And here is what I mean, by walking the walk, talking the talk: McCreath founded this fashion festival in 2008, to bring together vibrant designing talent, creating awareness locally and abroad and empowering Kenyan designers, artists and tailors. “I rounded up friends and whoever I heard of that I felt had a variety of background in fashion, art, music, and business, and who came from different countries, not just Kenya. We all came together to form a strong team to be able to pull off an event.” The panel consisted of South Africa’s Thula Sindi, Nairobi’s Kooroo, Mombassa’s LaLesso and Ghana’s Kofi Ansah, just to name a few.

So while I know that ethical fashion is making its statement, and designers are scurrying to make their mark, KikoRomeo, is proudly standing ahead of the line in the race. But that’s not the reason people are buying her designs. McCreath believes that her end product has to stand on its own two feet. “You want someone buying from you from respect, they love your product, they love the artistry in it and if its also ethical at the same time in the production process, so much the better.”

How can you resist the eclectic wear of a kanga? A square, cloth made from cotton, adorned in splashes of color and design, common to East African countries. Always bold, slightly adventurous but at all times appealing, the kanga is a fabric with a magician act. It can be tied in knots, folded, pleated, and wrapped practically any way you want it.

In and around Nairobi, a woman arises from her home, she walks along the street with the strap of her produce basket hung around the crown of her head, at the same time, she has on a bright Kanga that drapes around her shoulders like a cape. While another piece with an entirely different energetic pattern is tied around her waist, over her skirt. It’s a simple style, functional and with purpose, yet she is dramatic in this simplicity.

Kangas are so colorful and come in so many different spirited patterns. Here are some sold at a Nairobi market. The four sided fabric is surrounded by a border and a different focal design, while a Kiswahili proverb decorates the bottom center.

In style in the kitchen or while selling Kanga fabrics at the market, a young woman wears a Kanga print Apron.

To take it to a more deliberate fashion statement, the kanga is a frequent fabric favorite for Kenyan designers, used for long flowing dresses, cute bare it all shorts, and used as foundation for bags. The styles and designs that are invented from this double or single piece of cloth are truly inspirational and the best part, its ever so versatile. Kanga prints can be one of a kind, truly never the same design can be found more than after the year it comes out into the markets.

Some of my favorite Kenyan designers are creating fine designs out of the Kanga, and going to the shops is not an easy thing to do, one must have some serious will power to resist indulging. One of these designers is a small time, yet ambitious young lady from the label Blackfly, and already that name makes me want to start swatting out the dollars. Her fashion line though straightforward, maintains a cut and design that when put on, falls effortlessly beautiful on the body. But I wouldn’t say to stop shop there, amongst other labels, Blackfly comes out with funky and retro bags. For one of her styles, the designer uses suede for the palette of the handbag, lining the flaps of the exterior pockets and inner casing with lovely Kanga to give it that eye-popping appeal!

The fashion line KikoRomeo creates an inventive use for the fabric, not only with wrap around dresses and neckties, but also uses the material for shoes. Can you imagine dressed in that classic New York City all black outfit, and walking down the street making a statement in a pair dainty flats wrapped in a lively and flamboyant African print?

These are just a few designers that are making my time in Kenya just a little more colorful, but truly it’s the Kanga that’s working it.

It’s wonderful how countries within the African continent are largely benefiting from being involved in the Ethical Fashion process. Job and training opportunities are being created, and locals are being given new hope in trade techniques that are unique to their country and culture. And as the demand for Ethical Fashion grows, more countries in Africa are getting involved and benefiting from this movement in social and environmental awareness.

One of the big names that have expanded into the realm of Ethical Fashion is Topshop. In 2008 Topshop began stocking our beloved Lalesso, a label born in Kenya using high ethical standards in their sourcing and production.

Since then other big retailer names have started following in these ethically aware footsteps. Recently asos, the world’s largest online retailer, launched a range labeled their “Africa” line (a part of The Green Room collection), with the sole aim of supporting trade in Africa. This range is made from Organic and Recycled materials (see here for more info on what Recycled and Organic materials are), based on free-trade, and sourced purely from community projects on the African continent. The idea is to create a contemporary collection using traditional textures. Current styles and trends have been translated into more vibrant versions of themselves, using African Artisans to impose a uniquely African flair on each individual piece. Many of these products are manufactured at SOKO, a non-profit organization based in Kenya. SOKO is an Ethical Fashion manufacturer, providing fair wages, employment and training skills to communities in Kenya.

Ascension is an Eco-Fashion retailer that has grouped a number of different international ethically produced brands together, placed them side by side, and made them available to the public in one easy-to-shop destination. Not only do they source other designers but they have also begun to develop their very own Ascension collections, which aim to act as ethically as possible in every sphere, as well as celebrate the culturally rich influence that artisans from all over the world impose on their products. Africa is just one of the continents on which this ethical retailer has had a positive impact. As a company, they are directly involved in Rwanda, helping to develop sustainable skills with fair trade producer groups. Not only this, but they also promote and stock ethical designers collections such the “Julia Smith Made in Africa” collection, which gives “local mama’s” in Ghana a reliable income and the opportunity to become independent.

And these are just a few of the big names on a global scale that are welcoming this shift toward forward thinking fashion.

Africhic is an example of a company within South Africa that aim to do just this. As an Etailer, we take on up-and-coming African designers, providing an online market place for these designers in an attempt to advance the African fashion industry as well as local communities. Africhic also aims to help create awareness of the mass of talent we have within the continent. Africhic focuses on establishing African Fashion in global context and supporting African Designers, making them more readily accessible to the general public. We house many Ethical Fashion labels, each with a unique and inspiring story of their own. Missibaba is a Cape Town based label that design accessories. Craftswomen at the Ikaya Trust Centre help with collaboration and production and a happy work space is essential. Philippa Green is another label that Africhic has brought onboard. Green has taken her skills learnt in a Mexican mountain-villiage and become a well respected name in contemporary South African fashion. Employing local craftswomen from Mandela Park (a township in South Africa) to help with stitching detail on some of her signature pieces. The label is well known for its engraved perspex cuffs and customised rings. Lalesso is yet another label Africhic stocks. A popular brand on an inter-continental level and seen adorned by stars such as Rhianna and Sienna Miller, they supply stores such as Topshop. This label, birthed in Kenya, uses Kenyan fabrics and prints as well as skills and labour in order to turn their fresh and funky concepts into clothing. As a brand, huge amounts of emphasis are placed on maintaining socially responsible standards as well as involving the local community.

The benefits of supporting Ethical Fashion in Africa are numerous. From unique designs and prints, to economic growth, to job creation and encouraging fair trade, an involvement in Ethical Fashion can only add flavour to the already characterful African Fashion industry. And judging by the progress African Fashion has made in the last five year, it’s no holds barred from here on up.

It’s pretty easy in this green day and age to get confused when it comes to all the eco-ethical-environment friendly, social responsibility awareness that has been developing at a rapid pace since the start of the millennium. Fashion houses all over the world have begun changing the way they source and produce clothing, labeling these items accordingly so as to ease the conscience of the buyer, as well as often to justify the price. But what exactly do these labels mean? Ethical Fashion as a whole employs a different manufacturing process to that of the regular fashion most of us have been buying thus far. The priority, according to the Ethical Fashion Forum, is “defending people and their working conditions, environmental conservation, using ancestral knowledge and reflecting individual differences and culture”. The Ethical Fashion Forum is a non profit social network that has clearly marked out some of the ethical sectors involved in the broad category or umbrella term “Ethical Fashion”. According to them, one or more of the following trademarks classify a brand as an ethical fashion brand…

Organic Material is the first trade mark of Ethical Fashion. This describes the standards by which the unwoven fibers used to produce the material in question are grown. In order to be labeled “Organic” the growing process needs to meet certain Organic Agricultural Standards. This is not the same as Natural Material, which is the second trademark sector in Ethical Fashion. Natural material refers to raw materials that have minimal impact on the environment themselves as a result of their specific cultivation process. These materials require less pesticides, water and fertilizers than other materials – making them more environmentally friendly.

Natural Material Bamboo fibre; designer: Sandra Muendane

Recycling is the third ethical sector under the Ethical Fashion umbrella. This refers to the process of re-using clothes and other objects in creating something new. As millions of tons of re-usable textiles are thrown away each year, this is a highly effective way to aid in preserving the environment.

Recycling - Giveitbag from SA

The next sector involves promoting traditional textile techniques as well as promoting Know-How. This provides local artisans with job opportunities, as well as creates cultural richness and diversity within textiles.

Yet another of these ethical sectors involves Investing in Social Projects. This includes working with minorities and underprivileged communities, and providing them with training and jobs – enabling them to take control of their futures.

Last, but certainly not least, is a key element in realm of Ethical Fashion. Within the Fair Fashion sector, it is imperative that that the standards of fair trade are respected. The idea is to ensure that pay rates remain decent, in turn resulting in sustainable development.

In order for a brand or item to achieve Ethical Fashion status, it is not necessary to meet each and every sector under the Ethical Fashion umbrella. In a realistic sense this would be near impossible taking into consideration how the fashion industry is currently operating. The idea at the moment is to encourage awareness of a new attitude, way of thinking and manufacturing style, and hence every little step in the right direction counts. By even only employing one of these ethical standards, a label is able to brand themselves as ethically aware.

While this trend in ethical awareness began in the 80’s, the start of the new millennium saw exponential growth in this area. And it seems that is a trend that is not about to phase out any time soon either. In fact, it has been suggested that this ethical consciousness may not be a trend at all, but rather a more permanent awareness and shift in the foundations of the fashion industry itself.

And mainstream names are becoming more and more aware of the growing demand for ethically produced fashion. While previously it was only a few elite designers and boutiques that stocked ethical fashion, names like Topshop, Marks and Spencer, Ascension, asos, and our very own africhic of course, are now branching out and starting ethical fashion ranges, stocking them alongside their other regular ranges. This makes what was once less attainable to your middle class, pressed for time, uninformed shopper a more plausible option in terms of wardrobe choices.

It appears that ethical fashion is finally being made more accessible to the public. And the public is loving it. We look forward watching this welcoming shift in fashion further develop within the African continent, and eagerly anticipate the impact it will no doubt have on our beautiful continent.

With that whole economic depression situation still chewing holes in most of our sorely last season pockets, motivation to spend that bit extra for a cause can dwindle about as quickly as our pay cheque. But, as irony would have it, it’s in these times that supporting local designers becomes so important. We know that fabulous design, under normal circumstances, is often reason enough for us to dish the dosh on the latest trends. But as finances are currently a biggie – we thought we might encourage a shift in spending from quantity to quality, and take a moment to put in lay-mans terms why it really pays to keep our wardrobes local and lekker!

The why behind all this keeping it local business? Well, the largest reason (but certainly not the only one!) is arguably financial in nature. Buying home grown produce tends to impact positively on the continents economic climate. Here’s how it works:

Trading from country to country within the continent (Inter-African trade) does a great deal to improve economic environment of the continent. It also helps to establish and economic infrastructure that will in turn attract more capital investment. Currently Inter-African trade is under exploited. As a continent we are trading with other continents 8 times more than we are trading with other African countries. This means that other continents are generating profits from our locally made products, and strengthening their own economy. The idea now is to keep it local and put the money back into our own economy.

This is not to say that we should not capitalise on global interest in the African continent as a creative source by any means! For those who do know, African Fashion International is the corporate body that runs Cape Town, Joburg and Durban Fashion weeks, and more recently Africa Fashion Week (a continent wide initiative – genius!). The idea, according to Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe (AFI chairperson) is “to take African fashion to the world, using this Pan-African showcase as a fulfilment of that aspiration.” In 2009 New York fashion week hosted an African Fashion Collective for the first time, featuring many well known African designers from all over the continent. And African influences are currently being seen in international collections world wide. From textile patterns to prints to beadwork, the world can’t seem to get enough of us! But can we blame them? A continent with such a wealth of creativity and vibrancy only lends itself to serving as inspiration for designers globally. It’s amazing to see the world appreciate what the African continent has to offer. But it would be even more fantastic to use the platform that has now been established in terms of a style savvy Africa, and increase the demand in the market for local (African) products.

Harping on that economic note is the idea of helping to support the African textile industry. With some of the most unique textiles, from fabric type to print and patterns to colours, a world of opportunity and fresh idea’s is waiting to be taken advantage of in a much larger capacity than it is being used currently. While the cost may be higher at the moment to use these sorts of textiles as opposed to importing such textiles, with an increase in the market for such a product, cost prices will start to drop and thereby create a more economically viable, sustainable industry.

And that’s just the financial stuff! Other benefit’s of buying home grown are the incredible designs (obviously!) available from Africa’s designers and the brilliant raw talent we have at our feet – as well as creating a sense of unity and pride within our beautiful motherland. Let’s pay respect to our neighbours, personally invest in our country and our continent, and put our money where our mouths are. Instilling a sense of passion and pride in those who work within the fashion industry – in whatever capacity – can only positively benefit the African people as a whole. From basic job creation and employment, to personally witnessing local designs in a shop window, the ways in which supporting local talent can work to positively impact and strengthen the African fashion industry as a whole are endless. So, when your budget next allows you to treat yourself, consider exactly what it is in which you are choosing to invest. Will it be just that piece? Or will you be investing in a little more than just a particular piece? Now that’s Millie Pap for thought!

It seems our Brand Ambassador, Amanda Dilima, has been quite the social butterfly of late. She was recently spotted at Asoka and Jade on another girls night out. Working Michelle Ludek’s Grey Waterfall dress, she looked just about ready for anything! With cocktails and a dance floor involved, we all know how good it is to feel comfortable and confident in our outfit of choice. However Amanda had no problems in this department, and was happily able to dance the night away! She described the dress as sleek and comfortable. The inner built boob tube is also a definite winner as it holds well, which means not having to worry while breaking loose! Can we get an “Amen” ladies!

With the colour a neutral grey and the style loose and flowing, this fantastic frock oozes versatility – another one of those wardrobe essentials. While Amanda loves the style as is, for the evening occasion she paired the dress with a thin waist belt and a dazzling pair of jewelled hop earrings. Add some heels, some cocktails, and some good girl friends, and you have a recipe for a success right there. The dress was the subject of great reviews all evening, and lucky Amanda was the subject of a fiercely fun and carefree evening out!

Recently our stellar ambassador, Amanda Dilima, spent some time taking a “Girls Night Out” (you go girl!). She wooed the crowds in a fresh, funky frock by Lalesso – mixing evening glam with a little fun. The line up: dinner at Tank (at the V&A Waterfront), followed by an after party at Caprice in Camps Bay, no doubt dancing the night away.

The yellow and purple pattern coupled with the layers and loose flowing style gives the dress an air of feminine fun, while the black fitted top half adds a sexy edge. Easy to dress up for an evening or down for daytime wear, this dress available at africhic.com is a winner for every occasion.  Paired with some stylish shades and a bronze chain, we think Amanda couldn’t have looked better for the part!

Amanda Dilima in Lalesso